Gone to the Doges

Monday Night
Around 2:00 I heard the the front door slam, and the clatter of footsteps on the stairs - the guys were home! To reach the sacca they had to go to the very north part of the city, and they were able to find it without too much difficulty. Jane was not there, but they waited and she showed up, 10 or 15 minutes late, "because of the wind." She had the Zoolander Is That You God number so she should have called but the story has a happy ending - everyone had a great time and got a good workout.


As the guys stood on the dock Jane got in the boat and started by talking about her boat, and the unique way rowing is done in Venice: facing forward, standing. Connor was nearest, so she told him to hop in, and he got tips on balancing (one foot forward) and how to hold the oar (like the bar on the weight when you are bench pressing). Then Griff got his hands-on basics, then it was Ben's turn, even though he was supposed to be a passenger, not a player. Everyone aboard and briefed, moorings were loosed and they set out with Jane in the stern (steering) and Griff on the bow (providing the power). After practicing some maneuvers in smaller canals the wind died down enough to head to the Grand Canal. Connor got in on the action - they swapped several times during the two hours they were out - Connor thinks he's a natural at this. They crossed the traffic lanes, and were out in the big water, with the boys completely handling the boat, which was good because Jane and Ben were busy having a conversation. The wind came up a little, and C & G started to drift, but not before they had transitioned to the next level, which was balancing on the top of the boat while manning the stern. Jane took over and got them back on track, then Ben took a short turn before they got back into the marina. From what they reported at this point they all engaged in what I would characterize as "girl talk" - Jane, who was originally from Australia, had been married for 22 years to a Venetian piano player/cook, divorced, then she was either looking for or had been married to someone who could dance, and now she realized she just wanted someone who could build and fix things. They got some tips on faking accents, and she also advised C & G to be nice, but not too nice or they would get "walked on" by the ladies. Wish I had been able to go along!


Once they were done with regaling me with their tales of the sea, we set out again. Lunch was at a canal side trattoria. I stayed light with a vegetable soup, Connor and Ben had scrumptious spaghetti Bolognese and Griff went with a steak which he had to send back because it was so rare it wasn't even warm in the center, despite ordering it medium well. It came back more done but still short of even medium - Italians like their beef still mooing.


We got 48 hour vaporetto passes, and picked up bus tickets to the airport while we were at it. Then, our first vaporetto ride: in the outside bow seats, down the Grand Canal to San Marco Piazza. It is like moving back in time, as you chug past palaces that still retain vestiges of their past glory. It again was overcast, but the sun broke out several times, bringing an otherworldly light into play. We passed the Rialto Bridge, its classic elegance marred by graffitti. Finally, we rounded a bend and caught our first glimpse of the San Marco Campanile, the tall bell tower of San Marco.


Our vaporetto stop was right at the Doge's Palace, so we got tickets and headed in. This was the seat of the government of Venice for centuries. As well as being the home of the Doge (the elected ruler of Venice) it was the venue for its courts, its administration and bureaucracy and jail. This system lasted for almost 1000 years, from around 700 till almost 1800.

From the huge courtyard, you head toward the Doge's private apartments by ascending the Golden Staircase, so named for all the gold on the ceiling. Ornate antechamber after antechamber, we gawked at ceilings that (almost) rivaled the Sistine Chapel, and listened to Griff spin a fantasy of someday living in digs like this. We noticed many incarnations of the Winged Lion, symbol of St Mark, and Neptune and Mars. Most impressive was The Great Council Hall, which to this day is one of the largest rooms in all of Europe. Up to 2000 nobles would gather there and report transgressions - these were the equivalent of the kid who volunteers to write the names of talkers on the chalkboard while the teacher leaves the room. Portraits of the first 76 Doges line the room, all visible except the one of the Doge who tried to stage a coup and have himself declared prince. His portrait is covered.


Continuing through the palace we came to the jail area, which as you might imagine is not nearly so luxurious - althougth the cells were large we didn't imagine them as singles. We crossed the Bridge of Sighs, where the condemned got their last glimpse of Venice as they walked across. Finally, we exited and headed out to the Piazza, which is the only Piazza in Venice. The other, lesser squares are called Campo. Just looking around you are struck by all the ornate Byzantine architecture, but it is easy to be distracted by the crowds, the vendors and the high-end shops. Griff was chilled, so he bought a sweatshirt, then we wandered around, window shopping. C & G had a gelato, and then we found Harry's Bar, where we are headed tomorrow. The boys are treating, so perhaps Claudia and Kim might warn Rick and Jenny what to expect when they get the credit card bill....


We hopped on the vaporetto, and headed to our apartment. We hung out and reviewed our day, then headed to dinner. Ben, Connor and I ordered normal food - pasta, pizza - but Griff really went out on a limb and ordered something called Pizza Hamby Chips. Not only was this the oddest thing seen on this trip, it may be up there in the most bizarre ever: A pizza crust, topped with mozzarella, decorated with a hamburger patty in the center, strewn with french fries then drizzled with ketchup. He said it was fantastic; none of us sampled.


Hard to believe tomorrow is our last day!